UNFINISHED BUSINESS

SUMMER SPRING 2026

“I’m just a mum.”

These are the opening words spoken by Naomi Campbell in UNFINISHED BUSINESS, a quietly radical short film directed by siblings Ade and Tolu Coker, that reframes how we see legacy, motherhood, and Black womanhood in fashion. For Spring Summer 2026, visionary designer and 2025 LVMH Prize finalist Tolu Coker presents a body of work that steps away from the traditional runway and into something more intimate and enduring. Through a cinematic short film and emotive stills campaign, the collection centres the strength of softness, the visibility of care, and the role of fashion as heirloom.

At the heart of the project is Naomi Campbell, not only as a global icon and muse but as a mother. In a career defined by reinvention, she stands now in a pivotal new chapter. The film captures her in tender, contemplative moments, accompanied by a cast of Black British women and girls highlighting the significance of maternal and spiritual bonds. Daughters, sisters, nieces, godchildren stand as an ode to a powerful representation of how legacy is lived, shared, and passed on.

“When I design for women, I think about the different stages we go through and how our bodies, and our needs, evolve. I want the clothes to move with you, support you, and become part of your life’s story,” - Tolu Coker.

With this collection, Coker deepens her design philosophy of fashion as heirloom. Each garment is created with the intention to outlive its wearer, designed to be passed down, adapted, and imbued with new stories. Buttery upcycled leathers, deadstock cottons, reclaimed satins, and natural fibres are sculpted into silhouettes that reflect the evolution of womanhood. From gathered skirts and expertly crafted corset dresses to sweeping gowns and sculptural tailoring, each piece nodsto life’s transitions and holds space for the strength, softness, and complexity of the women who wear them.

“I’ve been a mother to so many. It was time to mother my own,” Naomi shares.

Her words echo through the garments like a rhythm, a statement of reclamation, identity, and care. Naomi reflects in voiceover, grounding the film’s message in something universal yet rarely seen in fashion at this depth. The film premiered during London Fashion Week in September 2025 as the official release of the Tolu Coker SS26 collection. It presented fashion not as a fleeting trend but as a living archive. A lineage. A love letter. It asked how clothing can become a vessel of legacy and how women across generations, particularly Black women, are the custodians of memory, identity, and grace.

“Legacy. It’s memories. It’s nostalgic for me” - Naomi Campbell

Delicate details throughout the collection reference Yoruba ceremonial attire, while British heritage codes inform the structure and craftsmanship. These dual influences reflect the shared diasporic identities of both Campbell and Coker, two women reshaping what it means to be British, to be Black, to be women, and to leave something lasting behind. The decision to present this work through film and photography rather than a runway show was intentional. It allowed for a slower, more meaningful creative process that honours emotional intimacy and the interior world of women. Every frame and every casting choice speaks to the many ways Black women mother biologically, spiritually, communally and the quiet power in choosing to be fully seen. Sustainability remains central to the brand’s DNA. This season features deadstock cottons, upcycled leathers, reclaimed satins, and hand-crafted finishes that ensure garments evolve with the wearer over time.

“I think about how when clothes are passed down, they absorb the energy of their wearer. They become vessels of memory, stitched with laughter, survival, joy, and grief. That’s what I want my pieces to carry,” Coker says.

Fashion becomes less about trend and more about truth, less about now and more about what we leave behind. UNFINISHED BUSINESS is not just a collection. It is a tribute to mothers, makers, muses, and memory. It is a meditation on what it means to leave something behind and the tenderness it takes to carry something forward.